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For Your Every Summer RSVP, with Code: SUMMER15
Description
Dietsji Bitless Bridle With Reins (System 5) Black/Pink SHPF. R. A. bitless system 5: bitless bridles are not new! For centuries a bitless bridle was taken for granted, before it was ever thought of putting something in the horse's mouth, people simply put something around it. A rope as a halter was sufficient at the time and that is how the first bitless bridle was created. In combination with the supporting weight, leg and feeling aids, the rider's hand maintains contact via the reins, not with the mouth,
F.R.A. bitless system 5: bitless bridles are not new! For centuries a bitless bridle was taken for granted, before it was ever thought of putting something in the horse's mouth, people simply put something around it. A rope as a halter was sufficient at the time and that is how the first bitless bridle was created. In combination with the supporting weight, leg and feeling aids, the rider's hand maintains contact via the reins, not with the mouth, but with the head of the horse.Operating principle: Pressure on the nose, neck and cheeks, crossed reins on neck and chin.
System: The leather noseband of these bridles, on the market known as the “Cook” system, is provided with rings on both sides just behind the cheek piece. Through these rings runs a flexible leather strap crossways over the chin, via the jaws over the neck. On either ends of this strap the buckles or clips of the rein ends are attached. On the left side of the bridle you will find one buckle for the cheek piece adjustment and one buckle to attach the crossed straps. To protect the neck area both straps are provided with a soft padding. The straps should be placed in the loops of this neck padding in such a way that they have an equal length on either side. The buckle of the chin band is the only buckle that is needed to secure the bridle to the head.
Position: As it is with most bit less bridles it also applies to these bridles that the noseband must be placed on the hard part of the nose, approximately where the nose bone begins. The chin band may instinctively feel taut but may absolutely not be drawn tight. This is to prevent wrenching of the bridle. The cheek pieces of bitless bridles with a chin-, neck-crossed system will always tend to bulge out a little.
Influence: With the crossed rein influence the pressure on the left side of the cheek is increased when the right rein is pulled, when pulling the left rein the pressure on the right cheek is increased with the effect of aids to start the turns. Equal influence on both reins cause pressure on the nose, the neck and the jaws all over the horse’s head. This enables the aids for a change of pace and a halt. It stands to reason that the dose of unequal influence will result in a similarly unequal pressure dose. For this system it means that the measure of occurring discrimination is dependent on the by the rider used dose in the rein aid. The crossed straps should be maintained well in order to guarantee a good release. It stands to reason that the other supporting aids play an important role. The bridle can only be used for lunging, normally, or normally using a Pessoa, when use is made of the lunging bit piece. The lunging bit piece is hooked in the rings that guide the chin bands (the crossed chin bands are not used at that moment, in order not to let them hang loose they can also be hooked in). For lunging with double lines and for Pessoa lunging we use the rings of the crossed chin bands.
Suitability: The bridle may be used for riding sensitive and less sensitive horses in all disciplines. The finely adjustable influences makes it with a light rein contact very suitable for dressage and on top of that it gives extra possibilities to ride less sensitive horses. In that category the bridle may also be used as a driving bridle. The bridle is technically not suitable to be used as a halter.
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4.8 ★★★★★
Based on 11 reviews
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Product Reviews
★★★★★ 5
Wish they came with instructions...
They are cheap and work great. They plug right into my Pioneer vsx521 receiver and my Paradigm Atom monitor speakers.
I wish they came with instructions, because it took me about 10 minutes to realize the bottom part unscrews in addition to the top part.
Here are my instructions for installation:
1) Unscrew the bottom part of this connector (the thin metal underneath the red/black ring).
2) Make sure the Banana Plug (which may be loosely screwed into the top part of the connector) is fully tightened down
3) Strip your wire tips to 3/8 of an inch (or just slightly under)
4) Run the first newly stripped wire end through the bottom part you removed in step 1, such that the stripped end of the wire is entering through the flat end and exiting through the smaller threaded end.
5) Leave about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of stripped wire hanging past the exit hole.
6) As evenly spaced as possible, bend the over-hanging wire strands over the exit hole (all around it, like a hat). If done properly, the wire should not fall out if you give it a VERY GENTLE tug.
7) Screw the top metal part (with the actual banana plug) back onto the bottom part. It may be difficult if your stripped wire is hanging too low. I've used a pair of pliers to grip the bottom part of the connector while I twist the banana plug side with my hand.
If done correctly, you should be able to put a lot of tension between the wire and connector without removing/damaging it.
UPDATE:
I just recently helped my dad install his 5.1 system without these... it sucked... This item (5 pairs of them in this case) and a good wire stripper can save you alot of pain (both physical and mental). The connectors on the back of his receiver are the kind where bare wire comes in from the side and then the connectors screw down (with a banana plug hole in the center which is where this product would come into play). I felt like a surgeon trying to get a bare wire end into the little slot, and then holding it there while I tighten the connector which is almost impossible since they are so close together...
GET THESE!
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Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2012
★★★★★ 1
'Monoprice' = Worst stereo banana plugs on T-H-E market.
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
The absolute WORST in stereo banana plugs - HANDS DOWN. After installing stereos and components for over 30 years, I'd say I'm experienced. These banana plugs fail at EVERY part of the design. Allow me to explain...
1) Starting with the tips, they are loose off the bat and fit LOOSELY in either the stereo input studs or speaker input studs by their 'girth'. They do not firmly seat in any plug and for this setup, I'm using a nearly $2K setup all together. They 'rock' back and forth (when inserted) and thus create a non-permanent connection, again, seriously making these utter junk. I've seen some items you can get by with over the years, but these aren't even rock bottom. They are unusable!
2) Next, the banana plugs themselves comes as three pieces. No non loosening o-ring seal but a plastic colored want-to-be imitation for positive and negative notation. Why do these stupid things come in three pieces? - I simply can't tell you why. I do know they serve no specific piece to solving the puzzle of installation so why do they come in three pieces...? My speculation is they are cheap china knockoffs.
3) The 'way' in which you normally install the trimmed wiring internally with the 'two-piece' design permits you to firmly CRIMP and hold the unsheathed wiring; but these do not. The overlap/overlay of the exposed wiring can only be about 2/16's of an inch thus not much to create a proper connection with. This single fact eliminates these plugs as even worthwhile component add ons; period. If you can't achieve a good ground/wiring connection, these are a defeated purpose...
4) Because of the design of these, they have no room to crimp and screw on the cable so your forced to nearly break your fingers in an attempt to get the unsheathed wire to overlay the internal threading and twist them on with all your might. This in effect breaks nearly every wire thread internally and then they breaks off inside. Absolute garbage.
These are total pieces of non-quality junk that did nothing but makes me waste 30 minutes on attempting to get them securely on and another 25 to locate my Amazon account, find this product in my order and ALARM anyone else from making the same mistake I made. Now, I find out I can't even get a return on these. Thanks Amazon. Thank you third party retailer. You just made me a very dissatisfied decade long customer.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 17, 2016
★★★★★ 5
Nice quality
Had to return due to our mistake but the mechanic said it was good quality. Ordered the correct size and worked great.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 30, 2025
★★★★★ 5
Perfect fit
Worked great for a 1965 mercury thunderbolt 150hp
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Reviewed in the United States on June 3, 2025
★★★★★ 5
MerCruiser Replacement Parts
OEM quality MerCruiser Alpha 1 Gen1 replacement part. Everything you need and some things you don't because it's a universal kit that works for several models.
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Reviewed in the United States on July 19, 2025